Polishing Internals

Polishing the internals is a nice performance addition that is over looked. By polishing the internals, you reduce the friction between the various components and enable the marker to cycle and shoot more smoothly. You may experience an increase of velocity by as much as 15fps.

Remove all air and paint prior to doing this modification. Read the instructions through. Make sure you have an understanding on what is involved in doing and what is needed for a trigger modification. If you attempt to do any of the home modifications listed on this site, I am not responsible for any damage done to, or from, modifying your marker. Also, by doing any of these modifications, you will void warranty of the marker. Kingman does not support the home modifications that I share.

Without further discussion, I will proceed.

First, you will need a good metal polish. A good polish that gives good results is Mother’s Mag Polish found at most automotive stores. You will also need a high grit sandpaper (about 600-800 and 1,000 grit; sometimes less to start out with). These high grit sand paper can be found in automotive stores. Also, a wooden dowel or shotgun cleaning rod and 18ga. attachment.

Polishing your marker is a two step process. You will need to sand out any rough surfaces from the parts. Then an application of a metal polish is used to finish the job. Disassemble your marker. What you need to polish specifically is the bolt, striker, valve pin (this is optional; do it if you feel some resistance), and the sear on the trigger mechanism. Basically anywhere that there is contact with other metal. Take off all o-rings on the bolt and striker. I also suggest taking the sear out of the trigger frame. There is only one pin holding it in. Clean the parts from paint and oil before sanding.

There is no need to sand and polish the AKA Lightening bolt or any of the Derlin bolts. This mod is only for metal bolts like the stock bolt or Bob Long bolts

Sand the striker, bolt, and top portion of the sear where the striker and sear rub. Also not a bad idea to sand the valve pin. Use the small grit paper first. Then work your way to the higher one. Be careful not to take off to much material from the valve pin, striker, and bolt. Any flat spots could cause problems on a smooth operation that you are trying to achieve.

 

Go slow and use circular motions. The striker may be harder to sand since it is a harder material. Do the best you can. No need to get the anodizing completely off. You just want to get rid of any ridges that are there. Sand the surfaces smooth. Do not sand the inside of the markers body! Wipe off the dust.

Apply the polish to the pieces you just sanded. If you have a dremal type of tool with a polishing wheel, go ahead and use that. If not, use those muscles. Make those pieces shine.

 

An excellent example of a rear cocking bolt from a Shutter and a polished striker.

The final step requires you to clean the inside of the body where the bolt assembly moves. AGAIN – DO NOT SAND INSIDE THE BODY!! All we are going to do is use the metal polish on the inside of the body. Take a soft cloth and attach it to the wooden dowel. If you have an 18ga cleaning rod for a shotgun, this will make things easier to do. I know you can purchase a pistol-cleaning rod that is short and the 18ga attachement separate. Apply and buff the inside of the body. Reassemble your marker.


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