How to install a pump kit on an Autococker

We are going to go over pump kit installation on a cocker today. First things first, make sure there are no balls in the breech and that you don’t have air on your marker. Next, lets cover the things you will need to install the kit.
Autococker
Pump kit
Allen wrenches
Paintball marker oil (also known as air tool oil)

One of the first things people ask is “how do I know what pump kit to purchase?”. There are two types of kits: pre-2k (AKA 99) or 2k (AKA 2K+). This is fairly easy to determine. Look at the large bolt (i.e. Banjo Screw) that holds your front block in place. If it is a large bolt about the size of a quarter your cocker is 2k spec. If it is smaller and about the size of a dime you have a pre-2k cocker. Now that you have the kit purchased you can start installing.

The first step is to begin removing parts from the rear of the autococker. Use your allen wrench to remove the bolt that secures the beavertail in place. Next, remove the bolt from the back block and unscrew the cocking rod. Your back block should now be loose and you can unscrew it from the pump arm.

Next, we need to remove the front block. Start by using your allen wrench to unscrew the banjo bolt that holds the front block in place. You will notice that the front block is free, but cannot come completely off because the timing rod is still installed. Use a small allen wrench to remove the rear set screw on your timing rod. You can now turn your timing rod counter-clockwise to free the front block. Depending on your marker, you may or may not need to remove the entire trigger frame to remove the rear section of the timing rod.

Your marker is now disassembled and you can begin installing the pump kit. Start by applying some paintball oil to the o-ring on your pump kit. This is important as it will prevent leaks. Next, screw the guide rod into the hole that your front block was secured onto. Don’t over-crank it as you could strip the threads on the kit or marker. Slide the pump handle on the guide rod and screw in the new pump arm into the pump handle. Don’t screw the pump arm all the way in, leave just a bit of slack to ensure a smooth pump stroke. Re-install the back block, bolt, cocking rod, and beavertail in that order.

That’s it! You’re all done. If your cocker was working well before the pump kit install, no adjustment will be necessary. If your pump stroke is stiffer than you would prefer, invest in a cocker spring kit (like the madman kit) to replace your valve and hammer springs with lighter ones.
Hopefully you enjoy the challenge of pump paintball and save some money on paint!


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